What is the right temperature to treat Ich?

[wedthaigirl]

Hello,

I have read so many conflicting things on the net about the right temperature range to kill Ich. I also have been using Rid Ich + for 5 days. I have had 2 Loaches die yesterday because of Ich. I have 1 Loach left (with Ich), 2 Bettas, 3 Tetras, and 2 Mollies. I have it at 83 degrees now and I am thinking about raising it to 85 or 86 degrees because I've read that Ich is vulnerable at these temperatures. However, I have read that the high temperatures will stress the fish further.

1) Can anyone give me firsthand information on the right temperature to cure fish from ich?

2) Also, are water changes necessary before Rid Ich+ treatment? If so, what percentage? Do I vacuum gravel or take the water from the top? I have a 20 gallon tank. I've read/heard conflicting things about this as well.

3) Also, should I keep the tank covered and dark for 48 hours?

Any info. would be helpful. Thanks!

Jeri

[ACKislander]

Warm temps do not kill Ich but they will discourage further outbreaks. Ich is a cool water parasite and doesn't usually affect water that is in the upper 70s. If you have ich already, it may help to heat your water to about 80F but treatment will still be necessary. Anything over 80F can cause stress to some fish including Bettas. 85F over an extended timeframe can be fatal. Please don't exceed 82F.

I usually just take the water from the top (instead of the gravel). Vacuuming your gravel everyday can upset the nitrogen cycle (if your tank is cycled) The reason you're doing partial water changes is to introduce dissolved oxygen back into the tank which is rapidly used up by the medication. It also helps to turn up your air-stone a bit if yours has a gauge on it.

I am not aware of any benefit to keeping your tank in the dark.

I hope I helped a little, here's some more info:

Here is a direct quote from Kordons (who is the manufacturer of Rid-Ich +) This should help you.
"The following procedure is applicable when treating the diseased fishes in their original aquarium or pond:
(a) Remove any invertebrates you wish to save.
(b) Remove carbon and clean outside filter. Replace with clean mechanical filter media, such as Kordon's Bio·Mech®, and return to use without the carbon.
(c) Perform a partial water change of at least 25%. Repeat water changes before each re-treatment with Rid·Ich+.
(d) Calculate the actual volume of water to be treated, taking into consideration the displacement of water by gravel, rock, and ornaments. (To calculate the aquarium's capacity measure its length, height and width in inches, multiply these dimensions together and divide the result by 232. Your answer will be the amount of water in gallons.)
(e) Add 1 teaspoon of Rid·Ich+ per 10 gallons of water. This produces a concentration of 15 ppm of formalin and 0.05 ppm of malachite green.
(f) Treatments may be repeated as often as every 6 hours (depending upon the severity of the particular disease and the tolerance of the diseased fishes). Treatment should be repeated no less than every 24 hours (see step c) and continued for at least 3 days beyond the disappearance of all sign of disease. Typical treatments of freshwater ich will be six to seven days long (meaning six to seven partial water changes followed by re-dosing of Rid·Ich+). The actual time necessary will depend upon the particular disease, the degree to which the fish are affected, and how early the disease is detected and appropriate treatment started. Note: Failure to properly diagnose a given disease and failure to start appropriate treatment early enough will often result in the death of some or all of the diseased fishes.
(g) After treatment, make a 40% water change. Add Kordon's NovAqua® and AmQuel® before replacing water in the tank."


Good luck,
Christie

[wedthaigirl]

Thank you for your information. Now I have a better idea of how to go about treating...

[Rachel]

The reason it is important to raise the temperature with ick is because it helps speed up the life cycle to the tomite stage (3rd stage). This is a 2-3 day time period, which is the only time medication will be effective in life cycle of the parasite. In the trophozoite (1st) stage, the parasite is under the fish's skin and in the trophont (2nd) stage the parasites fall from the fish to the bottom of the tank and multiply - medication will do nothing during these 2 stages. By raising the temperature, it helps to reach the point in time when the ick is free-swimming and looking to attach to a new host in the third stage.

It is good that you have raised his temp to 83. I would either keep it consistent there or very gradually raise it a degree or two further. Many breeders use temps up to 86 during the spawning process and their fish do fine. While it certainly is not ideal to keep him at this temperature in the long run, during treatment he should be ok. Once he is a bit better, you can gradually lower the temp back to the normal level.

Also, make sure you treat for up to 10-14 days even if the white spots appear to be gone before then. Yes, it is helpful to keep the tank dark as well. Ick is similar to velvet in this aspect.

Good luck with treatment!

[ACKislander]

Hey Rachel, do you know if it's ok to keep the other fish at those high temps as well? I have no idea how tetras and mollies do at those temps.

Thanks,
C

[Rachel]

Well, it would depend slightly on the exact type of fish. For all 3 of these types of fish in general (Tetras, Loaches, Mollies) the typical temp range is similar to a betta - usually up to about 82 degrees. Therefore, I would assume that the short-term raised temperature for these fish would be ok as well.

Edited just to mention that it is always important to research how treatment methods would affect each of your fish. I really only know and have experience with treating bettas for ick, so it is an assumption that the others would be able to handle the higher temps due to the normal temp similarities..