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Post by namelessbetta on Mar 4, 2006 11:36:18 GMT -5
Hi everyone, I am thinking about getting another betta. My nameless betta died in October (no tears, I had him for almost six years!). My question is this: I used bottled water only for his bowl, but is this necessary? The person who gave him to me told me to only use bottled water. His bowl also had a plant in the top, so I don't know if that had something to do with it. Also, I was thinking that if I do get another one, maybe a bamboo stalk might be better than a regular plant, because the plant seemed to rot after a while and make a mess in the water.
Any thoughts? Then again, I guess I was doing something right with my old one since he lived for so long!
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sawcat
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Post by sawcat on Mar 4, 2006 17:48:16 GMT -5
Bottled water will be very expensive. I just use tap water and water conditioner (Amquel and Novaqua currently). My old betta I had almost 2 years and he was in tap water and some cholrine remover to condition it (my water is very hard, and has ph of 8 and I do nothing for either of those). If you want plants, probably should go with a real aquatic for your light conditions
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Post by amanichen on Mar 5, 2006 10:20:28 GMT -5
The answer depends on the situation. For most people, municipal tap water is acceptable with minimal chemical adjustment.
Well water has the advantage of not containing chlorine or chloramine, but its pH and chemical content can be way off from what your fish need.
Bottled water is expensive, but in small quantities it can work if the water from your tap isn't acceptable. Note that in the United States, overall, municipal water actually has better chemical content, and less bacteria than many bottled waters. Bottled water is not always as "pure" as some people think. If you're using bottled water, there should be a good reason for it (i.e. it's too expensive to properly condition your tap water, and simply cheaper to buy bottled water in the quantities that you use.)
And of course, don't use distilled water or R/O water directly for your fish. If your water is excessively hard or the pH is too high, then mixing distilled water or R/O can help remedy this.
The bottom line is that it depends on your water chemistry.
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Post by sevenhelmet on Mar 11, 2006 22:09:13 GMT -5
I just use tapwater and condition it with Stress Coat. It's wayyyy cheaper and I know that it's what my Betta is used to since the dealer told me he does the same thing with nearly all the freshwater fish in his store.
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beta3chg
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Post by beta3chg on Apr 17, 2006 10:03:37 GMT -5
my tap water is filtered, but the filter takes out everything except flouride. This means my water is soft and very clean, but it has no minerals in it. Should i use a water conditioner or anything?
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Post by amanichen on Apr 17, 2006 12:58:13 GMT -5
my tap water is filtered, but the filter takes out everything except flouride. This means my water is soft and very clean, but it has no minerals in it. Should i use a water conditioner or anything? What kind of filtration is on your tap water? If you can get tests for the following, then it'll be helpful in determing what needs to be done to your water: 1. pH 2. KH (alkalinity) 3. GH (hardness)
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beta3chg
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Post by beta3chg on Apr 18, 2006 11:16:08 GMT -5
Its filtered using some kind of pottasium compound. Like i said, it takes out everything except flouride. It decreases water hardness (we used to have very hard water) and gets rid of chlorine. Test results: pH=7.2 KH=40 okay, for hardness i could only find a test for calcium hardness labeled CH, is that right? (i was using a pool testing kit ) anyway, CH=10 ppm Thanks for the help.
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bettons
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Post by bettons on Apr 18, 2006 14:05:54 GMT -5
beta3chg are those german degres or parts per million. Asuming it is in ppm that KH is low. Also I am thinking if you got the right test kit for calcium hardness then it should say GH not CH?
if you want to raise GH you can purchase seachem's equilibrium, which I use to raise my GH.
if you want to raise you KH you can use baking soda but it will raise Ph as well which is bad because you have a neutral PH. To raise both GH and KH simultaneously, add calcium carbonate (CaCO3). Add some sea shells, coral, limestone, marble chips, etc. to your filter.
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Post by amanichen on Apr 18, 2006 18:43:58 GMT -5
Its filtered using some kind of pottasium compound. Like i said, it takes out everything except flouride. It decreases water hardness (we used to have very hard water) and gets rid of chlorine. Test results: pH=7.2 KH=40 okay, for hardness i could only find a test for calcium hardness labeled CH, is that right? (i was using a pool testing kit ) anyway, CH=10 ppm Thanks for the help. It sounds like your filter might exchange calcium and magnesium for potassium. At any rate, your KH is a bit low, and the calcium hardness, if it is indeed in ppm, is also low. You can use calcium carbonate to raise the KH and GH, but there are other options that might make it easier to keep the chemistry consistent: Option 1 is this: www.kentmarine.com/freshwater/ror.htmlPlus www.kentmarine.com/freshwater/nc.htmlOption 2 is this: www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/FreshTrace.htmlPlus www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/neytralRegulator.htmlIn both cases you'll be doing essentially the same thing as you could do with just calcium carbonate, however, you'll have separate control of the KH (alkalinity) and GH (general hardness) which means you'll be able to fine-tune things better than simply using CaCO3 inside the tank.
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beta3chg
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Post by beta3chg on Apr 19, 2006 10:34:26 GMT -5
Thanks, i'll definetly try those. BTW, what are the correct ranges of KH and GH? (just so i know what's right when i test the water). Also, are there any strategies you can use to get the correct amount of water adjusters (i have 1 gal. tanks, not 10 or 20 gallons!) I do have an eyedropper that i use for melafix...i also do not have filters in my tanks, nor do i cycle them. anyway, thanks again for the help!
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bettons
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Post by bettons on Apr 19, 2006 14:57:04 GMT -5
I am really not sure what's the correct range since different fish require different levels but usually you want to go for 6-10dGH & dKH.
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Post by amanichen on Apr 20, 2006 19:23:09 GMT -5
Thanks, i'll definetly try those. BTW, what are the correct ranges of KH and GH? (just so i know what's right when i test the water). KH = 80ppm to 140ppm should buffer the water roughly between 6.8 and 7.3. GH really depends on your fish, but bettas can tolerate a wide range: 80ppm to 200ppm would be acceptable. Captive bred bettas will probably be used to ~150 while wild bettas might prefer softer water ~100ppm. Mixing up a 5 gallon batch might be practical enough for you.
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beta3chg
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Post by beta3chg on Apr 22, 2006 10:39:53 GMT -5
Great, thanks for the advice evabody!
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