My beta is lazy

[ZIGGLORBIO1]

My beta very rarely swims around. He is a young beta, only 7 or 8 months old, and I have had him for close to a month now. He stays in a 1/2 gallon beta kit container. I keep him on my bathroom cabinet, next to the water heater. (not too close of course) I have white walls, and thought maybe he was just bored. I even tried giving him bright colors (in the form of a magazine!!) to look at. He just doesn't move. He stays at the bottom of the tank--in different places though. I'm also not sure if he is eating or not--if so, not very much. Oh, I also have live plant bulbs growing in the tank, that he tends to hang out around. What will make him more active and interesting to watch??

[starlight]

Show him a mirror.

[ZIGGLORBIO1]

I FORGOT TO MENTION IT, BUT I HAVE TRIED THAT AS WELL. NOT MUCH DIFFERENCE.
THANKS THOUGH

[starlight]

ZIGGLORBIO1 said:

I FORGOT TO MENTION IT, BUT I HAVE TRIED THAT AS WELL. NOT MUCH DIFFERENCE.
THANKS THOUGH

Regardless...I'd show him a small mirror, w/o magnification (I've seen that scare some males) for a minute or two a day. Try it before feeding him. Don't worry if he doesn't seem to like it. Do this for a week or so and hopefully he'll flare. You can try leaving a small mirror (compact size) next to his tank when you leave. Some bettas' take time to warm up but usually fall in love with the "betta in the mirror". My females love mirrors as well as the boys.

Beyond it looking cool to humans, flaring is very good exercise for a betta. Without excercise the betta runs into other problems, digestive, etc. Also the bottom is not the best place for a betta to hang 24hrs a day. Flaring is important for other reasons as well. I'd also chase him around the tank (gently) with a straw.

Get your betta running! Wasn't that a song?

[ACKislander]

If your betta is lethargic and not eating or swimming there may vary well be some environmental factors affecting him. There are some basic requirement when keeping bettas that will help them lead an active and healthy life.

I'll go over a few basics that should be considered requirements, then I'll give you some ideas that will help to spice up life in a bowl for your betta.

First, the minimum size for a betta tank should be no less then 1 gallon. Many fish stores sell small betta bowls but they advocate them out of ignorance. Many fish stores don't realize that it is inhumane to keep bettas in tiny bowls because they are duped by manufacturers. This misleads consumers into thinking tiny bowls are safe for bettas. Keeping your betta in small bowls makes it nearly impossible to regulate temperature, pH and ammonia* levels. For instance, a 1/2 gal bowl would fill with ammonia so fast they would need to be cleaned about ever couple of days. Most fishy owners don't have that kind of time and the fish suffer stress from the frequent water changes.

* ammonia is the chemical that builds up from fish waste, uneaten food and decaying plant matter. It is highly toxic to bettas and even small amounts can cause harm that can ultimately lower a bettas immune system and shorten his life.

While a 1gal tank is considered minimum it is still smaller then preferred. 1 gal tanks are vary hard to heat properly. Also, water conditioners and always needed when using tap water and sometimes medicine needs to be administered. These things are usually designed around 10 gal tanks and it can be difficult to break a pill into 10 pieces or measure 1/10 of a teaspoon of water conditioner. If possible, I personally recommend nothing smaller then 2.5 gal. A 2.5 gal tank can easily accept a 25 watt heater.

Next, A heater is a requirement. Bettas are tropical and need a stable temp of about 78*F though 75-80 is fine too as long as it's stable and not dropping or raising more then 2*F in 24 hours.

As I mentioned, water conditioners are a requirement when using tap water. I like AmQuel+ and NovAqua personally, though there are other options.

Your betta will also need 100% water changes frequently (for uncycled tanks) depending on the tank size, type of food and amount of food fed and each individual fish. The idea behind a 100% water change is to make sure you are changing all the water before any ammonia or nitrites become present. It varies from fish to fish but usually a 2.5 gal container needs a 100% water change about once a week. To go along with water changes you will need to monitor the ammonia levels and pH levels in the tank. To do this you will need an ammonia test kit and a pH test kit. These are also considered a requirement.

So, those are the basics. If you see any of these out of wack try to change them and you'll see a big change in your bettas "fishonality."

Here are some extras:
The type of food you feed your fish can make a difference in his energy level. Bettas love meaty foods that are close to their natural diet. While pellets are nutritious you may want to consider changing it up a bit. After all, variety is the spice of life. Consider frozen blood-worms, daphnia, tubifex worms, black or white worms, beef-heart, grindal worms, glass-worms, brine shrimp, or other types of frozen or live foods. This will often get them excited about feeding time and you will witness a definitive change in your bettas attitude.

The "flare buddy" is another way. However I caution this method for several reasons... First, I hate the term "FLARE BUDDY." Remember, bettas are territorial and they do not enjoy other male bettas in their space. "Buddy" makes it sound like they want to be near the other fish or enjoy their reflection. They flare because they are angry and want to scare off the other fish. Despite popular belief they do not miss their "flare buddy" when he is gone and should not be exposed to their reflection for long periods of time. Also, sick bettas should not be forced to look at their reflection in an attempt to perk them up. "Flaring" is stress induced and stressing an already sick fish is not safe or humane. I would wait until your betta perks up before you consider showing him his reflection.

Lots of plants and hidey holes are a great way to get your betta to explore. They love moderate to heavily planted tanks so long as the surface is not completely covered. They need to be able to surface for air. Also, floating plants provide a nice calm surface for your betta to build bubble nests.

Well I hope this helps. Here's a recap:
1. 2.5 gal tank with 25 watt heater.
2. stable temperature about 78F
3. never allow ammonia and get an ammonia test kit.
4. stable pH. 7.0 is best but they can live well between 6.5 and 8.0.
5. 100% water change before any ammonia becomes present.
6. yummy food helps
7. plants and hidey holes help.
8. reflections can be used to stimulate only vary healthy bettas too.

best of luck. Also, check out general betta care located first in the Urgent and non-urgent betta boards.