Post by Rachel on Mar 13, 2004 18:40:34 GMT -5
Average Life Span:
Tank Size:
Tank decorations:
Temperature:
Water Type/Conditioners:
pH:
Cleaning Schedule:
Aquarium salt:
Food:
- Bettas typically live 2-3 years.
- Males are usually about one year old when bought in a pet store and females will likely be younger.
Tank Size:
- The general rule is at least one gallon of water per one betta.
- A tank must have a cover with air holes. Bettas breathe surface air and they do jump!
- Male bettas should never be housed together. A male should only be placed with a female if you have done extensive research about the mating ritual and are fully prepared to handle the possible outcomes.
Tank decorations:
- Decorations in the tank should be smooth to the touch and you should be able to run pantyhose along all of the edges without it catching. Silk plants specifically made for aquariums or live plants work well.
- Bettas appreciate hidey-holes or a place where they feel safe and out of sight. Votive candleholders, plant pots, and many other things can be used. Just make sure that they are aquarium safe.
Temperature:
- Bettas should be kept between 78-80 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Temperature should be stable and not vary more than a degree or two from night to day.
- A thermometer is essential to monitor the temperature of the tank.
Water Type/Conditioners:
- Do not use distilled water. It lacks necessary minerals for a betta.
- Tap water can be used, but make sure to use a water conditioner that removes chlorine, chloramines, and ammonia. Here is a beneficial link that compares some of the most common water conditioners: www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/rev-cond.htm.
- Bottled spring water is a good source for bettas. Usually it does not contain chlorine so a water conditioner may be unneeded. However if you rinse the tank or decorations in tap water, or put your recently rinsed hands in the tank, you will be introducing chlorine. Test the water for pH and chlorine when first purchasing and stick with the same brand!
pH:
- Bettas do best at a neutral pH around 7.0. Test the pH at water changes to always keep the reading consistent. Adjustments in pH should be done over a gradual time period at water changes.
Cleaning Schedule:
- Regular water changes are the best way to prevent illness!
- A 1-gallon (unfiltered) tank should receive partial water changes and a good substrate cleaning every couple of days. Anything less than 1-gallon should be cleaned very often. A tank cleaning schedule should be based upon water conditions, such as keeping pH stable, and ammonia at 0 which forms from decaying food, fish urine, etc. Test your water on a regular basis!
- The clean water should be the same temperature as what was previously in the tank. Bettas are sensitive to changes in water temperature and this can cause stress, in turn leading to illness.
- A turkey baster is a useful tool to clean debris off the bottom in-between water changes to keep ammonia levels lower.
- If you choose to cycle your tank with a filtration system partial water changes will still be necessary. Here are a few links that deal with tank cycling. Fishless cycling: webpages.charter.net/bettamvp/fishlesscycle.html
General cycling: www.solodvds.com/fish_tank/cycling_fish_tank.asp
Aquarium salt:
- Only salt specifically intended for use as 'Aquarium Salt' for freshwater tanks should be used. Doc Wellfish's Aquarium Salt is a common brand. Table salt or ocean salt are not acceptable substitutes.
- Salt should be reserved only for when illness occurs to aid in the healing process. The dosage for this is 1 teaspoon per gallon (depending on illness).
Food:
- There are many types of food available for bettas: dry pellets or flakes, freeze-dried products, frozen, and live food. The key to a healthy betta is variety in the diet. Try alternating food between meals.
- Bettas are carnivores, so food with high protein content is necessary.
- Bettas should be fed everyday, preferably split up into two meals. Fasting a betta one day per week may help to avoid constipation.
- Portion size is important. A betta's stomach is approximately the size of his eyeball, so be careful not to overfeed!
- If there is any uneaten food in the tank be sure to remove it quickly. Otherwise it will decay and quickly pollute the water raising the ammonia level.